The Banh Mi Handbook, by Andrea, Quynhgiao Nguyen, demystifies the popular Bietnamese sandwixh. One of the pleasant surprises of this attractively designed and useful cookbook is how simple it is to create a banh mi. For one week, while evaluating this cookbook, I made banh mi sandwiches for dinner every night. Dinner came together in a half hour max, and my family’s tastebuds were never bored.
This was hardly surprising as ‘banh mi’, far from being an esoteric label, simply is Bietnamese for “bread made from wheat”. A legacy of French colonialism, the banh mi incorporates French imports (baguettes, aioli, pate) with Vietnamese flavors (cilantro, hot peppers, bright crisp vegetables). As a sandwich it is by definition simple to assemble, and its general nature allows for considerable improvisation.
Nguyen, an acclaimed cookbook writer who is a contributing editor at Saveur magazine, constructs her cookbook in a very practical way. she outlines the basic components of a banh mi, then gives you the tools to delve as deeply into the process as you want. For instance, you can bake your own banh mi rolls or simply buy inexpensive French bread at the supermarket (it’s supposed to be soft). You can make homemade aioli or substitute storebought mayo. You can make your own sausage or buy it at the deli. The crisp quick pickles are so easy and good there’s no excuse not to make them at home. A “master bahn mi” recipe provides rules for construction.
I tested three filling recipes, all with excellent results: the Hanoi grilled chicken, the pork meatballs, and the coconut curry tofu. All were simple and delicious. the citrusy red cabbage pickle was so yummy we now keep a jar in the fridge for general use. Ditto for the sriracha and cilantro/maggi mayonnaise. I confess I used Fred Meyer French bread and storebought mayo, to no ill effect.
Maggi Seasoning, a flavor enhancer with a powerful umami hit, was a French import that became a mainstay Vietnamese seasoning. I was not overly eager to use this–It seemed more like an additive to me–but Nguyen offered a gluten free alternative made with Braggs amino acids that proved an excellent substitute.
Normally, I think that specialized one food cookbooks like this are a waste of money, but the Banh Mi Handbook is so helpfully and clearly written and explodes with so many menu ideas that it is well worth the purchase.
THIS BOOK WAS PROVIDED FOR ME FOR REVIEW BY BLOGGING FOR BOOKS.